Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Together

Overcast windy weather drives us to Moorea's north side, past Cook's bay, without a single blow to be seen two hours into our watch.

Jerome's hunch proves to be a good one though, when two plumes suddenly greet us not too far off. First dip's in vain, but on the second drop, in barely 10m of water, I get to see an imposing humpback mother with calf in her wake gliding by right beside me! Nobody else got in the water in time. Back on board, we wait for the baby to breach again. Sure enough, a few minutes later it briefly surfaces in our neighborhood and we all slip in.


Luck's with us as the mother no longer seems to see us as threat and decides to hang around. Letting her baby pop up every few minutes while remaining below. Only when she needs to come up for air too, about every twenty minutes, do we need to climb back onto our boat to be dropped off where she dives down again. An adult whale easily covers hundred meters or more between ascent, 3-4 breaths and descent. Four times we had the privilege to float in the water near mother & calf, before having to head back to base, due to time-out.

Sunday, October 10, 2010

Lemon valley

Training dive with a couple of lemons, blacktips & a gray reef shark.

Saturday, October 9, 2010

Stingray city

Whale song

Michael having flown back home, I've taken his place as spotter beside Jerome. Watching is one thing though, seeing another. We've been cruising for almost an hour when, as I take a look behind us, a movement way back briefly catches my attention: a tail gliding into the ocean? Jerome immediately turns the boat around and heads towards the place I've pointed out.

As we approach the supposed dive spot, there's nothing indicating the presence of a whale. I'm already doubting my imagined sighting as Jerome stops the engine and jumps overboard, soon popping up again saying the magic word: singer! And from the sound of it relatively near. It's just a matter of waiting for it to surface. Incredibly enough it indeed breaches about 20m away for 3 or 4 breaths before diving down again to continue its song.


As soon as it submerges we slip into the water too, head below water we're immediately engulfed by the whale's strangely beautiful song.

The whale itself is nowhere to be seen, so I just let myself float around while listening and staring at the sun's rays plunging down in the ocean's unfathomable depths.

Twenty minutes later the whale re-surfaces for an encore...

Friday, October 8, 2010

Family day

Double shift, meaning morning & afternoon watch without a break, a good 8h at sea on a small boat. Early sighting of a solitary whale, but no luck seeing it below the waves. Later on we find a mother with calf and male escort. They're not in a playing mood though, shying away from the boat each time we approach and diving down when we slip in the water and swim towards them.


After a short pit-stop at Linavera, we return to the same spot and soon find both the lone whale and the family again. This time we're allowed in the inner circle and get to swim close to the baby as it slowly comes up to the surface for a couple of breaths, while its mom and her escort remain below.

Baby humpbacks can measure up to 6m and weigh about 2 tons at birth... so keeping a respectful distance isn't a bad idea, unless you don't mind being accidentally bumped into. [ → humpback whales ]



UPDATE: Yesterday a tourist tried to pat a baby humpback. It patted back. The lucky tourist got away with only a few broken ribs.

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Feeding time

Every day, at 5pm, Roland strolls to the end of his jetty, a bag full of fishy appetizers in his hand. Awaiting him eagerly, besides his guests and resident small fish, are some local big girls and cool guys, a.k.a. nurse and blacktip reef sharks.

Today, the sun being in a shiny mood, I decide to dip into the water myself, 5 minutes before show time, for a closer look at the action below the waves. Positioned right below the jetty, I ask Roland not to throw the morsels too far off, the viz not being that great, i.e. less than 5m. He gladly obliges and I'm promptly rewarded with a nurse slowly swirling around and around in front of my camera, trying in vain to get a free snack, while a handful of blacktips keep darting in for a quick snatch, when not outdone by a few opportunistic remoras.

Sometimes there are up to three nurses in attendance and a dozen of blacktips all competing for a bite, not to mention some daring seagulls snapping the food away in mid-air or as it hits the water.

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Close encounter with two giants

Two impressive close encounters with a pair of 10-12m humpbacks.


I actually had a sensory overload as once both slowly rose up from the blue right in front of me, my still jet-lagged brain alas rather unable to fully register that overwhelming moment.

Monday, October 4, 2010

Plumes, dorsals & tails

Fortified by a big french breakfast, consisting of an extra-large cup of coffee, home baked bread & jam, baguette, croissant or chocolatine, plenty of fresh local fruit & juice, we set out at 13:30 for our first whale watching tour, together with four other german tourists, boat captain Jerome and Michael, owner of Tauchertraum, accompanying us as guide & spotter.

Basically, whale watching is scanning the horizon while cruising along the coast, in this case the outer reef, until somebody sees a plume, dorsal or tail of one or more breaching humpback whales, then head towards it, wait for one to come up for air, then slip into the water and snorkel in its direction, hoping to intercept it, for a brief look before it plunges down again on its endless journey.

Our first dip was in vain, with no whale to be seen underwater, but on our second try we actually saw two shapes slowly gliding by below us.

Sunday, October 3, 2010

Check dive among blacktips

We're picked up at 07:45 by Catherine from Moorea Fun Dive, for the short drive from Linareva to the dive center, where her husband Greg is waiting for us to gear up and board the dive boat.


Moorea's reef suffered a lot of damage when cyclone Oli blew over Polynesia last february and is in a rather desolate state. Luckily the sharks are still there: blacktips, grays and lemons. The latter are currently in mating mood, meaning they're mostly busy elsewhere, i.e. in deeper waters beyond recreational limits. One paid us a courtesy visit though, attracted by the irresistible smell of a frozen tuna head, which Roland, acting as dive guide today to help out his wife's nephew Greg, brought down to get some special attention.

Saturday, October 2, 2010

Résidence Linareva

Our 37h journey started yesterday at 6am, by car to Munich, jet to Paris, jet to LA, jet to Tahiti, aircraft to Moorea and finally bus to
Résidence Linareva, our first stop on this three islands tour.


Owned, managed and run by Roland & Edmée, two very hospitable and friendly Alsatians, Linareva is a small garden resort located right at the coast on Moorea's wild south-west side.

Sunday, September 26, 2010

Recreational SCUBA gear


Booties, fins, 3mm neoprene suit, hooded vest, swim trunks, gloves, regulator, power horn, DIN-to-INT adapter, SMB, belt, aluminum backplate & harness with utility pouches, weight pockets & two CAM bands, single tank wings* (12l), whistle, strobe light, mask, snorkel, reef hook and pointer... all in all about 12kg of SCUBA gear.

Wednesday, June 2, 2010

The Underwater Photographer

Ordered online monday morning from amazon.de and delivered at my door today by the postman: "The Underwater Photographer" by Martin Edge (4th edition, ISBN: 978-0-240-52164-0, 25€ incl. free shipping).


Here's what others have to say about it:

→ book review on wetpixel by Steve Williams
→ customer reviews on amazon.com and amazon.de



UPDATE: And here's my opinion after having read it from A to Z.

Martin Edge's rather heavy 500 pages book isn't quite as encyclopedic as its not-meant-for-traveling weight might suggest, it being more an inspirational guide book to the art of underwater photography than a referential source of dry facts and educational how-tos.

Though not always as detailed or in-depth as I would have liked (*), the text's very easy to read, covering most aspects of underwater photography and always well illustrated with plenty of exemplary photos. (* internet links often point to additional online resources, but on paper these aren't clickable of much help)

I don't know about experienced underwater photographers, but for amateurs wanting to make underwater photos rather than just take snapshots, I'd say Martin Edge's "The Underwater Photographer" is a recommendable book to get started. Without a doubt much more so than e.g. "An Essential Guide To Digital Underwater Photography" (1st edition) by Michael Aw & Mathieu Meur, which I personally found disappointing from every point of view.

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Sulawesi, Indonesia, April 2010

Wonderful muck diving in Lembeh's famous strait with Two Fish Divers and relaxed reef diving near Donggala with Prince John Dive Resort.


travel blog

Indonesia - info sheet

VisumBelgian citizens can get a 30 days visa-on-arrival for 20€ or 25$. [ → Indonesian embassy in Berlin ]
TimeIndonesian time = CEST + 6h
WeatherAir temperature: around 30°C, with occasional tropical downpours. Water temperature: 28°C.
Currency1 Euro = 11200 Indonesian Rupiah
LanguageEnglish is barely spoken by some.

Videoclip: Lembeh critters

It took me about a day and a half to go through my 244 critter clips, sort them down to 193, i.e. 6.4GB or about 70' of WVGA resolution Motion-JPEG footage (taken with a Panasonic Lumix DMC-FS5), rate, import into iMovie 08, select, cut & paste the best passages, edit and export them into a short 6'56" 960x540 MPEG-4 video of 193MB.

Exporting & uploading to YouTube took almost half an hour. For an optimal viewing experience, be sure to watch it in 480p.

— Lembeh Critters (video removed)

Saturday, April 24, 2010

Singapore - Sonthofen

Door to door it took me 30h to get back home. I actually arrived early, despite Iceland's volcano outburst having messed up european airspace and as a consequence all flight schedules the previous week.

Friday, April 23, 2010

Donggala - Singapore

One hour sweaty drive from Prince John Dive Resort to Palu's domestic airport (dept.tax: 20'000 Rupiah), followed by a cool 45' flight to Balikpapan (int.dept.tax: 100'000 Rupiah), where five hours later I can board my two hour flight with Silk Air to Singapore.

Note that Singapore-Balikpapan-Palu is the normal route into C-Sulawesi for most divers, e.g. in combination with a stay at Maratua Paradise Resort, off Kalimantan's east coast.

Thursday, April 22, 2010

One more time

Dive #15 [ 9:15 | 76' | max.25m, avg.9m | House Reef ]

Last dive of this trip, leaving me with 24h to off-gas, dry & pack my gear, before boarding the first of three planes on my way back home.

Sightings: angelfish, sweetlips, butterfly fish, goatfish & jacks.

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Busy night

Dive #12 [ 9:52 | 58' | max.25m, avg.15m | Pasi Pome * ]
Dive #13 [ 14:18 | 68' | max.25m, avg.11m | House Reef ]
Dive #14 [ 18:38 | 65' | max.13m, avg.8m | House Reef ** NIGHT ]

Very nice reef top at Pasi Pome seamount, half an hour away from the resort, with lots of sponges and nine cuttlefish in mating mood.

And another great private night dive straight from the house beach.


Sightings by day: cuttlefish gathering, crocodile fish, moray eel, mantis shrimps, small sea snake and a lone turtle.

Sightings by night: several moray eels prowling around, cuttlefish, tiny blue ringed octopus on the hunt, crab with a sponge plate as cover, camouflage boxer crabs, seapen with two tiny crabs, nudibranchs and of course plenty of basket stars & crinoids.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Back among jacks

Dive #9 [ 9:25 | 64' | max.21m, avg.12m | Natural Reef ]
Dive #10 [ 14:11 | 68' | max.13m, avg.7m | House Reef ]
Dive #11 [ 18:38 | 68' | max.13m, avg.8m | House Reef * NIGHT ]

Back-rolled in again as soon as I could. Got some catching up to do!


Sightings by day: cuttlefish, blue spotted stingrays and my favorite schooling fish: silver jacks!

Sightings by night: lots of basket stars, unknown something, camouflage crab, lion- & scorpionfish and whirling plankton.

Monday, April 19, 2010

Grounded

Three dry days due to a nasty ear infection. With the sea at my feet that's like an eternity.

So I picked up a 900 pages thick book, my first novel in german as a matter of fact, there being hardly any english ones in the resort's library. And I actually sat on the beach, underneath a straw roof, for a few hours every day, thereby getting a shade of a tan while waiting to submerge again below the inviting waves.

Friday, April 16, 2010

By my self

Dive #7 [ 9:17 | 69' | max.15m, avg.9m | House Reef ]
Dive #8 [ 14:40 | 57' | max.15m, avg.9m | Anchor Reef ]

Lost my group again - I must have a knack for it. Probably too independent & impatient to just hang onto a guide's fins without a good reason. The cause this time was lack of communication from the guide's part: no briefing above nor clear signals underwater, poor visibility and current that picked up shortly after we submerged. And of course me refusing to just hover nearby without there apparently being anything interesting to see and thus wandering off...

Thursday, April 15, 2010

Housereef by night

Dive #4 [ 9:23 | 62' | max.21m, avg.12m | Natural Reef ]
Dive #5 [ 14:08 | 65' | max.29m, avg.14m | Green Wall ]
Dive #6 [ 18:41 | 63' | max.13m, avg.8m | House Reef ** NIGHT ]

While I quite enjoy the relaxed reef dives here, it's the wonderful encounters by night that really get me thrilled.


Sightings by day: shy napoleon, lots of gardens eels, crocodile fish, various nudibranchs, small sea snake and a cuttlefish a.o.

Sightings by night: two small false stonefish & a juvenile lionfish snapping at sardines attracted by my light, snow white & wine red basket stars hypnotically weaving their numerous arms around, lots of crinoids, several crabs & shrimps, flashy squids, cuttlefish & tiny octopus on the hunt, palm sized nudibranchs, scorpionfish lying in ambush, baby sole, flat worm and loads of micro-organisms.

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

South atoll

Dive #2 [ 10:33 | 61' | max.32m, avg.14m | viz~10m | South Atoll ]
Dive #3 [ 13:04 | 63' | max.24m, avg.12m | viz~10m | Pasi Kawe ]


Day trip around the corner with the big boat, to a sandy atoll barely sticking out of the sea and a submerged seamount. Visibility could have been better but both sites offer beautiful reef tops and I got to have a peek at a tiny squat lobster, two pygmy seahorses and three leaf scorpionfish.

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Prince John Dive Resort

Got a nice hill side category 1 bungalow with private tree shaded sea view terrace and cold water mandi. Electricity only from 6pm to 6am, but for charging purposes there's 24h power in the dive center.


Prince John Dive Resort is currently being managed by Gaby & Alex, a german couple doing a pretty good job catering mostly for german tourists in this relatively remote location.

Took the morning off, just hanging around, enjoying the sunny weather and meeting the other guests.


I actually already passed by here back in 1994, but didn't get to dive then due to financial disagreements with the former manager. The snorkeling however, especially at night, made enough of an impression to get me to return for another look.

Dive #1 [ 14:16 | 64' | max.20m, avg.8m | viz~10m | 28°C | Alex's Point ]

Despite the proximity of Donggala and other smaller coastal villages, the wonderful reef top is still pretty intact and vibrating with an healthy amount of coral fish life. Not to mention trash of all kinds.

Sightings: octopus, cuttlefish, mantis shrimps and a small school of juvenile jacks a.o.

Monday, April 12, 2010

Lembeh - Donggala

It's supposedly possible to fly directly from Manado (dept.tax: 30'000 Rupiah) to Palu in about half an hour. However, the responsible? Indonesian carrier being too unreliable to count upon for getting tourists to their destination on a specific day, a longer journey, via Makassar (S-Sulawesi) with Lion air, needs to be undertaken.

Meaning my transfer from Two Fish Divers to Prince John Dive Resort took 13h in stead of 5h. Both resort-airport transfers take a bit more than an hour by not-for-easily-unnerved-people kamikaze-like taxi.

Note that whereas the plane from Singapore to Manado was mostly filled with international underwater tourists, I was the only foreigner on the plane from Makassar to Palu. In my case, that's a good sign.

Upon arrival around 11pm I'm met by Bruno, a swiss scuba instructor in charge of the dive operation, and shown into my private wooden bungalow, where after a quick mandi-shower I just crash into bed.

Sunday, April 11, 2010

The last parade

Dive #14 [ 8:26 | 61' | max.23m, avg.13m | Makawide island ]
Dive #15 [ 10:43 | 63' | max.20m, avg.12m | Police Pier II ]

Strangely missing in action on this trip: warty, hispid & hairy frogfish; reef & estuary stonefish; pygmy seahorses; seamoths and mimic & wonder octopus a.o. Maybe next time?


Critters: red seahorse swimming around, pink seahorse, false stonefish, scorpionfish, orange painted frogfish on the move, and of course various lionfish.

Saturday, April 10, 2010

Lembeh at its best

Dive #11 [ 8:27 | 63' | max.21m, avg.13m | Batu Sandar * ]
Dive #12 [ 10:37 | 71' | max.18m, avg.11m | Jahir ** ]
Dive #13 [ 15:12 | 75' | max.11m, avg.9m | Aer Prang *** ]


Highlights of the day: a supermodel anemone crab, a crazy devil scorpionfish scratching a false stonefish's humpback and a much looked after weedy scorpionfish posing with yet another devil scorpionfish. Yes, that weedy was a rhinopias frondosa indeed, a first sighting for me, so I took my time with it :o)


Critters: various lionfish, emperor shrimp, juvenile batfish, camouflaged box crab, tiny flamboyant cuttlefish, ambon scorpionfish, orang utan crab on the sand, brown seahorses, handful of cockatoo waspfish, anemone crab & shrimps, several devil scorpionfish & false stonefish, a rhinopias and various sea urchins.

Friday, April 9, 2010

The art of guiding

Dive #8 [ 8:18 | 48' | max.23m, avg.13m | Critter Hunt - ]
Dive #9 [ 10:33 | 81' | max.17m, avg.9m | Tandu Rusa ]
Dive #10 [ 15:20 | 73' | max.19m, avg.11m | Makawide shallows ** ]

Lost my group at Tandu Rusa, meaning I did not get to photograph the seahorses there. With visibility varying between 5 and 10m, it's inevitable to get out of sight while trying to get a shot. A good guide however would return and get you back on track. Having the guide just for me on the third dive made everything alright again :o)


Critters: false stonefish, nudibranchs, various shrimps, waspfish, sand eel, lots of anemones, lionfish, pair of ambon scorpionfish, long-arm octopus on the hunt, flying gurnard, small brown frogfish, various scorpionfish, crab carrying an urchin on its back and a velvetfish.

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Muck diving extraordinaire!

Dive #5 [ 8:34 | 61' | max.21m, avg.12m | Hairball ** ]
Dive #6 [ 10:48 | 75' | max.17m, avg.12m | Tandu Rusa ** ]
Dive #7 [ 18:01 | 64' | max.15m, avg.10m | Nudifalls * NIGHT ]

Today I got what I came for: Lembeh diving as I remembered it :o)


Critters: colony of hingebeak shrimps, various lionfish, trio of whitish harlequin ghostpipefish, cockatoo waspfish, pair of devil scorpionfish, several flounders, tiny bristle? worms, sea snake, brown, red and yellow seahorses, false stonefish, autumn-orange juvenile batfish, tiny orange frogfish, anemone shrimps, emperor shrimp, banded pipefish, cardinalfish, nudibranchs, crabs, blue spotted stingrays, flat worm and blooming corals during the night dive.

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Not quite like the first time

While I do enjoy spotting critters myself, I do find it kind of weird that I'm actually stumbling upon more creatures than my guide... and I must say I'm slightly disappointed with the relatively little we've seen so far, that is, compared to the many extraordinary sightings during my first trip here in July 2005. Time to lower my expectations?

Dive #3 [ 8:33 | 58' | max.30m, avg.15m | viz~10m | Angel's Window - ]
Dive #4 [ 10:58 | 66' | max.21m, avg.12m | viz<10 | Batu Sandar * ]

Whereas yesterday I just point-n-snapped a few macro shots with my five year old Sea&Sea DX8000G, today I tried out some underwater close-up videography with a housed Panasonic FS5. In both cases using a TillyTec LED 2000 VIDEO light for illumination.

Critters: octopus, pair of orang utan crabs on a bubble coral, short-tail pipefish, 2 relatively big crabs, 2 small brown seahorses, tiny ambon scorpionfish (3cm) and a small robust ghostpipefish.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Two Fish Divers Lembeh

After having been welcomed and briefed yesterday by Helen & Gizmo, the two new managers of Two Fish Divers Lembeh, I made myself comfy in my budget room directly above the dive center, unpacked, set up my gear and met some of the other international guests.

The room's raher spartan & not very charming, but it's clean, with two basic hot! water bathrooms and toilets downstairs around the corner. To my surprise there's no mosquito net, but an electric dispenser does a great job at keeping any would-be-stingers outside. There's 24h power, so charging lights, strobes and cameras can be done around the clock. A must be for any photo- or videographers.


Activity being the best remedy against jet-lag, I immediately went for two morning dives right after breakfast.

Dive #1 [ 67' | max.20m, avg.12m | viz<10m | Tanjung Tebal ]
Dive #2 [ 70' | max.18m, avg.11m | viz~5m | Teluk Kembahu ]

Visibility ain't too good, but for artificially lighted macro & close-up snapshots that doesn't really matter too much. Water temperature's a nice 28°C, meaning my 3mm wetsuit and hooded-vest are enough to keep me relatively warm. I'd recommend a 5mm though.

Critters: small devil scorpion fish in the open, small brown frogfish pretending not to be there, four squids hovering in formation, several parading lionfish, two anemone crabs apparently not minding my attention and a tiny cuttlefish scuttling over the sandy bottom.

Monday, April 5, 2010

Sonthofen - Lembeh

After a 26h journey by car, 3 trains (to Munich), 2 planes (to Manado via Singapore), van and boat I find myself on Two Fish Divers Lembeh's black sand beach. Tomorrow the diving begins!

Monday, March 29, 2010

Food Is Power

As long as we, as consumers, just buy & eat without second thought, there'll be providers eager to supply & sell, without any scruples, whatever we pay for, no matter the price & consequences.

Nutrition is ruthless business. A fact proven once again at this year's CITES world conference, attended by over 1500 delegates from more than 170 governments, where China, Japan and their bribed allies defeated every proposal to protect various endangered shark species and the overfished atlantic bluefin tuna a.o. Shark fin soup & sushi are big money. Way too lucrative to restrict harvesting in any way.

They won't stop until it's too late, unless we can change our feeding habits. Be aware of the far reaching impact of your shopping list!

Friday, March 19, 2010

TillyTec LED 2000 underwater VIDEO light

Took advantage of TillyTec's fairly unique offer to upgrade almost any of its light-heads or battery-packs to a newer more powerful one.

That is, I exchanged my outdated-technology HID 35 not just for one, but for two new LED 2000 VIDEO light-heads, in order to have a dual evenly illuminated video lighting solution.

TillyTec's standard LED 2000 has a 175W halogen equivalent 10° beam ideal for technical diving, whereas the non-focussed VIDEO version has a more diffused 110° wide beam optimal for videography.


Modular & expandable underwater lighting system configurable to one's needs.

Power: Seven hi-tech LEDs delivering 175W of halogen equivalent output according to TillyTec's specifications (5500°K, 45000 Lux).

Despite its power, the VIDEO version has a rather limited range.

Burn time: two LED 2000 light-heads can shine for more than 100' on one TT 3 NiMh battery-pack. (note that it is not possible to connect two LED 2000s to a single Flexi II or TT 2 battery)

Robustness.

It's not possible to dim the output, nor change the beam's angle.

A diffuser is available that can be popped on or off underwater. While not needed for the VIDEO version (except maybe for reducing its intensity), it can be useful for softening the SPOT version's beam.

Note that, even with diffuser, the LED 2000 SPOT has a hotspot when pointed towards nearby subjects or surfaces, so this option is not recommended for e.g. macro photography or close-up videography.

A Goodman handle and flexible arms are available as accessory. Both can hold e.g. TillyTec's HID 35, LED 1000 or LED 2000.

IMO, TillyTec's LED 2000 VIDEO produces nice hotspot-free illumination for macro photography or close-up videography.

→ macro photography illuminated by just one LED 2000 VIDEO
→ close-up videography illuminated by one LED 2000 VIDEO

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Dive trip booked!

Got a pretty good offer for a dive trip to Indonesia from Aquaventure Tauchreisen which I readily accepted :o)

Planned are six muck diving days with Two Fish Divers in Lembeh (N-Sulawesi) and ten reef diving days with Prince John Dive Resort near Donggala (C-Sulawesi).

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

I need to submerge and soak up some sun

After seeing an ad in tauchen, I requested a quote from Aquaventure Tauchreisen for a 3 week combo-trip to north & central Sulawesi, for some extraordinary muck & relaxed reef diving.

Thursday, January 28, 2010

boot 2010: TaucherTraum

TaucherTraum having several special tours I'd just love to join, we immediately headed for its booth to get some more information.

Michael, the owner, being the specialist for Polynesia, answered all our questions regarding snorkeling with whales, diving with sharks, accommodation & living costs and even presented some of the dive guides for some first-hand impressions. After which we had a friendly chat with Steffi & Stefan whom I'd met two years ago among sharks.

Besides Polynesia, I also gathered some info about Baja California and enquired about the situation in the Galapagos. The latter's alas getting more expensive and more restrictive every year, with dive tours not allowed on land and land tours not allowed in the water?

Still, plenty of wonderful dreams indeed, waiting to be dived into...

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

HybriDiving?

Via Wetpixel I came upon a product presentation video for the Lunocet monofin. While I sure would like to try one out myself, the reason I'm actually referring to this advertisement is its wonderful initial 40" sequence featuring dolphins - without a doubt some of the best footage of this kind I've ever seen.

Saturday, August 15, 2009

Cocos Island, Costa Rica, July 2009

Last-minute one week live-aboard trip around Cocos Island, a small uninhabited island about 530km off Costa Rica's Pacific coast.


trip blog

Wednesday, August 12, 2009

YouTube

Ready for broadcast: Two short videos about diving around Cocos.

— Underwater moments at various dive spots
→ Among Sharks, clip #4: Whitetip Reef Sharks

Saturday, August 8, 2009

Screening

After immediately having deleted about 15% of my video-clips during initial preview on the ship, I now screened & labeled the nearly 200 remaining ones (8.5GB) and imported about 120 of these into iMovie '08 for further selection, cutting & editing.

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Frankfurt - Sonthofen

At 02:05 I started my slow middle of the night train journey from Frankfurt, via Karlsruhe and Ulm, arriving in Sonthofen at 10:00.

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

San Jose - Frankfurt

At 00:30 we took off without further delays, the co-pilot supposedly comfy in his new seat, unlike most of us economy-class passengers.

Our midnight arrival in Frankfurt was rather chaotic, with only two overwhelmed Condor employees there to handle a planefull of people wondering what to do next regarding their lost connections.

Eventually we did get offered the possibility to overnight at an airport hotel. An offer I declined as getting to the hotel, checking in & out and getting back would have taken more time than I had to wait till the first train bringing me home.

Monday, August 3, 2009

San Jose

Early before-breakfast transfer to the airport (20'), only to be told that our plane's delayed fifteen hours due to technical problems with the co-pilot's seat.

Surprisingly though we're not left to our own devices but taken on a city-tour, including local breakfast (gallo pinto) and walk-about, before being dropped off at the Best Western Irazu hotel, where we all get a room, lunch & dinner vouchers for a fast meal at Denny's and the ability to make any international calls as desired.

At 10pm we're once again brought tho the airport for another try at getting out of the country.

Sunday, August 2, 2009

Orquideas Inn

Easy day by the hotel's pool.

Saturday, August 1, 2009

Arenal

Having two dry days before returning home, seven of us chartered a minibus with driver (35$/person) for some sightseeing and getting us to Arenal, an active volcano about three hours away from San Jose.

Along the way we had an interesting look at a butterfly farm (5$), where we also got to see several kinds of hummingbirds, had a plunge in a refreshing waterfall (10$) and relaxed in a spa with thermal baths fed by hot springs (30$). Unfortunately, the 1657m high volcano remained completely hidden in thick clouds...

Friday, July 31, 2009

Puntarenas - San Jose

In stead of driving straight back to San Jose, we let Rudolfo take us on a canopy zipline tour, at 60$/person for about one hour in the tree-tops. Followed by a tasty local lunch in a roadside restaurant (casado con pollo at 2000 CRC, plus agua de fruta).

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Cocos Island - Puntarenas

Pleasantly smooth sail back to Puntarenas. Shortly after we left the island yesterday evening, a pod of dolphins joined us, playing in the bow's wave till sunset.

While we off-gas any residual nitrogen accumulated over seven days of intensive diving, our gear's slowly getting as dry as possible on a ship at sea. At the end of the day, repacking everything takes 15'.

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Conclusion

Dive #22 [ 07:59 | EAN30 | 49' | max.34m, avg.18m | Dirty Rock ]
Dive #23 [ 11:06 | EAN32 | 48' | max.30m, avg.16m | Punta Maria ]
Dive #24 [ 14:57 | EAN34 | 45' | max.23m, avg.13m | Manuelita ]

Most divers come to Cocos Island for its schooling hammerhead sharks. And while they definitely still are here in unknown numbers, they rarely came close enough for us to see more than their shady contour in the distance. Personally I only got to glimpse a few small packs of up to twelve or so, i.e. no 'hammer wall' like in the Galapagos just two and a half years ago. Relatively bad visibility of course didn't help us getting a good look at these rather shy creatures. A couple of times though, a few of them did come a bit closer out of curiosity, giving me at least a chance to get a snapshot or two as souvenir.

The prowling white tip reef sharks however more than made up for our troubles getting here. Especially my three nights out with them were in themselves reason enough to come back. Note though that according to my logbook scribbles from twelve years ago (12/1996), their number has seriously decreased, as has the population of marble rays.

Yearly and seasonal variation can account for a lot, as does daily timing and luck, but still, June-August is supposed to be the best time of the year for diving, whereas December-January is normally only better weather-wise.

During my first visit here I also witnessed huge schools of swirling jacks, hanging like great dark clouds below the waves, forming massive columns of silver rising from the ocean bottom to the surface, in numbers beyond counting, in congregations in which I could disappear and loose myself. This time however we only saw a few comparatively small schools of jacks.

Another dramatic difference was the total absence of mobulas and pacific mantas. And it's not just the big boys that are scarcer: small fish, lobsters & turtles too are no longer as present as they used to.

According to a park ranger with whom I had a brief chat, I'm not the only one to mention this apparent general decrease in underwater populations. Not surprisingly I guess considering the relentless illegal fishing going on around here. Tuna and shark fins are big money indeed. Nothing a few rangers with a dingy can do anything against.

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Nightlife!

Dive #18 [ 08:40 | EAN31 | 35' | max.30m, avg.20m | viz<10m | Alcyone ]
Dive #19 [ 11:42 | EAN33 | 30' | max.30m, avg.20m | viz<10m | Alcyone ]
Dive #20 [ 15:42 | EAN34 | 57' | max.26m, avg.15m | viz.15m | Manuelita ]
Dive #21 [ 18:20 | EAN34 | 42' | max.14m, avg.9m | night | Manuelita ]

Empty blue at Alcyone. Whitetip warm-up tumble at Manuelita.

At night, we once more mingled with an ever increasing multitude of whitetips, for some up close and personal moments :o) Somehow I found myself in the middle of the pack again, loving every second of it. Sharks bumping into my camera & torch, squeezing by underneath my arms. While sometimes hectic indeed, it never got chaotic, and I always felt completely at ease.

Monday, July 27, 2009

Hammerheads

Dive #15 [ 08:22 | EAN32 | 42' | max.22m, avg.16m | viz.20m | Dos Amigos ]
Dive #16 [ 11:15 | EAN33 | 44' | max.30m, avg.19m | viz.20m | Dos Amigos ]
Dive #17 [ 15:32 | EAN31 | 46' | max.22m, avg.14m | viz<20m | Manuelita ]

Hammerheads by the dozen, whitetip bustle, marble rays & schooling fish under Dos Amigos Grande's arch and pairing jacks at Manuelita.

Sunday, July 26, 2009

Close encounters!

Dive #11 [ 08:01 | EAN31 | 41' | max.30m, avg.22m | viz.15m | Alcyone ]
Dive #12 [ 11:05 | EAN32 | 35' | max.29m, avg.22m | viz.15m | Alcyone ]
Dive #13 [ 15:40 | EAN32 | 55' | max.16m, avg.12m | viz.10m | Silverado ]
Dive #14 [ 18:28 | EAN32 | 40' | max.19m, avg.12m | night | Manuelita ]


Hammerheads relatively close and a pack of resting whitetips at Alcyone. Not a single silvertip in need of cleaning at Silverado, but we got face to face with a red lipped batfish and a snake eel.

Great night dive among prowling whitetips, hungry giant trevally and brave lobsters scurrying about. Caution: Beware of the sea-urchins!

Saturday, July 25, 2009

Fish weather

Dive #8 [ 08:30 | EAN31 | 46' | max.29m, avg.18m | viz.15m | Dirty Rock ]
Dive #9 [ 11:27 | EAN32 | 47' | max.28m, avg.19m | viz.15m | Dirty Rock ]
Dive #10 [ 15:22 | EAN30 | 49' | max.30m, avg.17m | viz.20m | Viking Rock ]

Pouring rain. Any wetter and the fish will be flying around. On the bright side however, we got to mingle with jacks, saw dolphins swimming by and had some hammerheads coming a bit closer than usual.

Overcast sky, relatively deep dives and rather poor visibility alas ain't what you'd call ideal conditions for underwater photography without strobes... meaning taking down my compact Sea&Sea DX8000G digital camera would be a futile exercise. Luckily, video is another matter, so for memory's sake and your visual needs, I'm trying to capture some moments with a housed Panasonic Lumix FS5 compact digital camera.

Friday, July 24, 2009

Action!

Dive #4 [ 08:04 | EAN30 | 53' | max.30m, avg.19m | viz<15m | Manuelita ]
Dive #5 [ 11:01 | EAN31 | 51' | max.27m, avg.15m | viz.10m | Manuelita ]
Dive #6 [ 15:09 | EAN34 | 48' | max.25m, avg.14m | viz.15m | Manuelita ]
Dive #7 [ 18:22 | EAN31 | 53' | max.16m, avg.10m | night | Manuelita ]

A few scalloped hammerheads (3-4m) keeping their distance, whitetip reef sharks (1–1½m) resting on sandy patches or slowly patrolling around, marble rays weaving by and a relatively large school of jacks hovering like a dark cloud above us. That is, Cocos usual suspects.


Highlight of the day was our night dive on Manuelita's shallow side, where dozens of whitetips immediately joined us to pack-hunt by the light of our powerful torches! An incredible experience indeed :o)

Thursday, July 23, 2009

Under pressure

Dive #1 [ 08:19 | EAN34 | 51' | max.13m, avg.10m | viz.15m | Bahia Chatham ]
Dive #2 [ 11:17 | EAN34 | 52' | max.29m, avg.16m | viz.10m | Isla Pejora ]
Dive #3 [ 15:41 | EAN34 | 51' | max.21m, avg.12m | viz<15m | Manuelita ]

Except for the check-out dive, all diving is done in two separate groups from two zodiacs. Most dive sites are located off the main island, around rocks or seamounts. As these are relatively small, both groups usually dive different sides or sites.


Cocos being an oceanic island, swept by sometimes breathtaking strong currents, divers must be confident they can handle rough conditions and blue ascents with SMB deployment from 5m or deeper. Water temperature rarely drops below 27°C, so that's no challenge.


With up to four dives a day and initial depths varying between 20-30m, Nitrox, at 113$ for the week, is highly recommended, both for safety and extended bottom times. Deco dives are not allowed.

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Puntarenas - Cocos Island

Not feeling too great until noon, when suddenly I'm just fine again and hungry. The sea's actually amazingly smooth, with long flat swells. The blue sky's showing off some dramatic 3D cloud formations.

We're twenty divers on this trip, all Germans except for myself, and surprisingly most happen to come from Bayern, that is, the Bundesland I currently call home. To take care of us, there's a crew of eight: captain/divemaster, three divemasters/boatdrivers, chef & assistant, steward and engineer.


Cocos Island is located about 530km west of Costa Rica's Pacific coast, a 32 hours sail for the Okeanos Aggressor (length: 33m, beam: 7m, draft: 3m, cruising speed: 10 knots, max 22 passengers).

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

San Jose - Puntarenas

After an early breakfast, where I get to meet some of the other passengers, we're all checked into a mini-bus by Rudolfo, for our transfer to Puntarenas, where the Okeanos Aggressor is waiting for us. The ride, commented all the way by Rudolfo, only takes 3 hours, including short stops at a roadside eatery, fruit-stall (cashew nuts, 1500 CRC) and supermarket (1/2l Powerade, 600 CRC).

At the dock, the ship's sturdy Costa-Rican crew welcomes us and quickly loads all our stuff on board. I'm sharing the four bed bow cabin with Jürgen. With four it'd be rather crowded, but being only two, we've got plenty of space to move around and stow our things. Each cabin has its own toilet & shower and adjustable AC.

Settled in we immediately also set-up our dive gear on the large aft deck. After a quick shower, we're served a light lunch and get briefed about standard boat safety procedures.

The weather's pretty nice, but I've strapped Petra's sea-bands around my wrists anyways. Note that anti-seasickness pills are available on board, personally though, I'd rather avoid any medication unless absolutely necessary. Besides, should the crossing get rough tonight, resulting in hard slamming of the bow, I guess I could always try to get some sleep on one of the couches in the main deck's salon?

Monday, July 20, 2009

Orquideas Inn

Transit day at the Orquideas Inn. I'm sharing a room with Jürgen, a German diver & underwater photographer.

Sunday, July 19, 2009

Sonthofen - San Jose

Train from Sonthofen, via Ulm, to Frankfurt (5h). Flight from Frankfurt, via Santo Domingo, to San José (15h). Door to door a 27 hour journey. Traveling this far west, I actually went back 8 hours.

Currency: 1 Euro = 820 CRC , 1 USD = 0.7 Euro , 1 USD = 580 CRC

Saturday, July 18, 2009

Packing day

My flight being with Condor I'm only allowed 20kg, so for an additional 50€ I bought myself an extra 30kg so as to be able to pack just about any dive gear I might need. When diving around a small island in the middle of the ocean, you don't want to make any compromises regarding SCUBA & safety equipment.

Preparing & packing all my stuff took about five hours. My dive bag weighs 24kg, my clothes & toiletries trolley 8kg and my hand luggage 10kg (incl. laptop and heavy dive light battery).

Friday, July 17, 2009

Last-minute booking

After an early phone call from Tauchreisen Roscher confirming availability and price, I gave myself one hour to quickly check things out before calling them back to book my next adventure!

Departure's in two days so I've got no time to waste :o) Action!

Thursday, July 16, 2009

Trip enquiry

Sent an email to Tauchreisen Roscher enquiring about a last-minute offer for a 10 day dive trip to Cocos aboard the Okeanos Aggressor.

Thursday, September 4, 2008

IUCN

Two days ago I got a rather lengthy ego flattering email from IUCN via Flickr, requesting permission to use my finned shark photos in a publication about endangered marine animals, meant to raise awareness about conservation issues and inspire people to action.

These sad pictures actually already got some broader public attention before, thanks to volunteers and web reporters, but this time they'll be exposed to an even larger audience:

... We have decided to produce a book targeted to the public to raise awareness about the latest issues facing ocean animals. Our aim is to inspire people to action through a collection of witty but true stories and inspiring photos of marine creatures. The book is called: "Adrift, Tales of Ocean Fragility". ...

netted turtle
... The book features twelve stories of different ocean animals such as lobsters, sharks, tropical corals, abalone, wrasse, eider ducks, tuna and more, each illustrated with stunning photos. ...

finned sharks
... The book will be launched at IUCN’s World Conservation Congress this October - this huge conference takes place every 4 years and is the largest regular gathering of conservation organizations - we are expecting 8,000 people this year. The press will be invited to the formal launch of the book. The book will be sold at aquariums throughout the world and online through various re-sellers. ... The book has no commercial intent whatsoever. All proceeds from the book will go to conservation projects focused on marine species. ...

With phrasing like: You will be prominently credited on the photo credits page of the book ... to help give your photos more profile. and This is a great opportunity for you to help the cause of marine conservation, and to achieve a small slice of fame for your photography!, how could I possibly have said no :o)

IUCN publishes the "Red List of Threathened Species" among others.

Wednesday, January 23, 2008

TillyTec LED 1000 underwater light

Having a movie project in mind needing illumination, I once more turned to TillyTec, maker of lights for divers venturing into darkness. And came back home with a bright new TillyTec LED 1000.


Modularity & expandability.

Power: 100W halogen equivalent output according to the manufacturer's specifications (5000°K, 25000 Lux).

Burn time: 195' on my Green Force Flexi II NiMh battery.

Robustness.

It is not possible to dim the light's output, nor change the beam's angle from e.g. spot to flood. Remark that while you can slightly adjust the beam's focus while underwater, it's not really recommended to do so, due to the risk of flooding should any dirt have lodged itself on the lens's o-ring.

The clear glass lens can be replaced by a frosted one for more diffused lighting purposes.

A Goodman handle is available as optional accessory, and highly recommended for e.g. cave or wreck diving, where having one's hands free for other tasks may be crucial.

Great light both for recreational & technical diving.

→ LED 1000 in action while night diving with & filming white tip reef sharks around Cocos Island

→ LED 1000 (with diffuser) in conjunction with a HID 35 (with flood reflector) while cave diving in Mexico

Wednesday, October 31, 2007

DYK Rejsespecial 2007-2008

In April 2006 I did some deep wreck exploration in the Gulf of Thailand from the M/V Trident live-aboard.

A year later, Jamie Macleod, owner & captain of the Trident, asked me if I could help out Dmitri Gorski by letting him use some of my underwater photos taken during that trip. Honored by the request, I of course obliged :o)


This month, Dmitri's five page article about technical diving in Thailand, together with four of my photos, got published in Scandinavia's main dive magazine: DYK (Rejsespecial 2007-2008).

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

PADI

I became a PADI certified diver in 1993 and an instructor three years later. I officially remained a PADI pro till the end of last year, after which I stopped paying for the honour. (read why below)


From 2000 to 2006, I paid my yearly membership fee to PADI Europe (headquartered in Switzerland), even though I lived in Denmark and thus technically belonged to PADI Nordic (headquartered in Sweden). The reason being that I wanted to be kept up-to-date in English, an option not offered by PADI Nordic.

My affiliation to another region was not a problem until 2006, when I tried to order some teaching material from PADI Europe. My online order was processed alright, but got cancelled later on by PADI Europe, which subsequently also decided all by itself to transfer my membership to PADI Nordic. For seven years PADI Europe cashed in my membership fees, sent me self-promoting newsletters, self-congratulatory magazines & eternal guideline updates; but when I actually wanted to use their services to get some teaching done, they suddenly remembered only local headquarters were allowed to sell me anything. As if I care where a manual actually comes from when I order online. A week later I got a welcome letter from PADI Nordic. In Swedish. And I no longer had access to the online shop. So I had to tell my student to get the necessary course material from a Danish dive shop at twice the price.

After having done the theory, we travelled to Thailand to do the actual open water training. While the Thai dive shop we used as a base fully assisted me, PADI however once again left me standing alone & fuming, refusing to accept my instructor credentials for instant online certification of my student. The reason: in order to be able to certify new divers in Thailand you have to be a member of PADI Asia (headquartered in Singapore). Meaning, I guess, I'm supposed to temporarily transfer my affiliation each time I want to teach & certify while on holidays somewhere outside my region?

When a year ago I moved to Germany, PADI Nordic & Europe joined forces and professionally screwed up again. Starting with PADI Nordic ignoring my request for re-transfer to PADI Europe (probably waiting to cash in my membership fee first) and followed by PADI Europe mishandling my membership renewal for 2007 (despite direct e-mail contact). So I stepped out. After 10 years as a PADI pro.

Today, out of the blue, PADI Europe sent me a congratulatory letter, thanking me for my continued support of the organization, significant role in its growth and felicitating me -about one year late- with my tenth anniversary as a PADI member. I guess they haven't realized yet I've left the association. That or they're in total denial. They also assume I must be pleased to know that I'll even be listed in the 2nd quarter "Undersea Journal" in recognition of my commitment. Second quarter? Either it already came out several months ago, or it sure is several months late. Not that it matters, at least I'm not getting that nonsense any longer.

Hyped-up recognition is alas what PADI is very much about: badges for anything, certificates for whatever and pins to prove it.

Thursday, May 31, 2007

Stories from the blue

Via X-Ray magazine’s blog I came upon an amazing account by Scott Cassell of an incredible underwater encounter with giant Humboldt squids: Dancing with Demons - definitely not for the faint of heart!

Talking about thrilling experiences, here's a movie to look forward to: Sharkwater, a documentary by Rob Stewart about sharks & us.

Sunday, April 22, 2007

Shark finning: One more victim

Barely two months ago I compiled "Shark finning: A soup story", an article about the meaningless extermination of sharks all over the world to satisfy the ever growing -primarily Chinese- demand for shark fin soup.

On the 8th of April 2007, while diving in Raja Ampat, West-Papua, Indonesia, I came face to face with yet another victim of this irrational hunger.


At the end of a wonderful dive along a pristine reef in front of Sauwandarek village on Mansuar island in Raja Ampat, West-Papua, Indonesia, something too white among the colorful corals caught my eye. As I approached and realized what it was, I was once again reminded of the dark side of humanity.


One more shark slaughtered for its fins and carelessly dumped overboard to slowly drown in the shallows.


Judging from its state this one was murdered very recently, probably just the night before by some poor bastard trying to make a living.

Wednesday, April 18, 2007

Sulawesi & Papua, Indonesia, March-April 2007

Indonesia is one of those destinations I always feel like going back to again and again...


For my fifth visit, I chose two ethnically & culturally very different regions: North-Sulawesi, an old favorite of mine, and West-Papua (former Irian Jaya), that I've wanted to check out ever since I first heard about it several years ago.

travel report

North-Sulawesi: Sahaung island

Blue Bay Divers is a small dive resort owned and run by Anke & Salmon on Sahaung island, a tiny private island right next to Bangka island in northern Sulawesi.

We only spent our trip's first week here, in order to acclimatize and do some warm-up dives, but I wish we could have stayed another week.


With max two divers per guide and max two groups per boat, the diving is as private as can be. The dive guides don't speak much English but know their sites inside out, pointing out anything you might have asked for and showing you again exactly what you saw afterwards in the many fish identification books available for study in the resort.

Sahaung island and it's big brother Bangka offer all kinds of diving, from shore to boat, from muck to reef, from easy to drift. And should that not be enough, the Bunaken National Marine Park and Lembeh strait are only about an hour away by boat.

Right in front of the resort, the small bay offers some pretty good muck diving: juvenile fish of all sorts, elusive mandarin fish, harlequin ghost pipe fish, translucent shrimps, small moray eels, plenty of lion fish of various kinds, reef & estuarine stone fish, crocodile fish, blue spotted stingrays, sea snakes, spiny sea urchins and many more.


Around Bangka there are some really nice spots teeming with soft-corals and huge sponges thanks to the nutrient rich currents, and critters are just waiting to be found: frog fish pretending not to be there, cuttle fish flashing their volatile moods, mantis shrimps scurrying around, orang utan crabs squeezed in bubble corals, squat lobsters hidden in crinoids, scale worms underneath cushion stars, etc. Not to mention the robust ghost pipe fish I found all by myself!


Just a short hop away, mainland Sulawesi's coast also has plenty of very good sites. Below the Paradise pier we found flounders, wasp fish, anemone porcelain crabs, juvenile cat fish all balling together in an ever moving swarm, nudibranchs, etc. And on a nearby reef we saw a winged pipe fish, a leaf scorpion fish and two stone fish, one of them completely dug into the sand with only its eyes and mouth barely visible.

In other words, enough to keep you diving again and again for more. Even though visibility wasn't too great while we were there, varying from 5 to 10m at most, we really enjoyed our dives in the 28°C water.


And in between, the place is just perfect to relax and enjoy the view. The bungalows, all facing the bay, are basic but spacious and clean, each with its own veranda and mandi style bathroom. The Indonesian food is finger-licking delicious. The people friendly and ever helpful. What more could you wish for?

West-Papua: Kri island

While by now there are a couple of seasonal live-aboards covering the region, Papua Diving, owned by Max Ammer, is so far still the only permanent dive operation in Raja Ampat, an archipelago of jungle covered islands just off western West-Papua.

Papua Diving actually consists of two different set-ups: Kri Eco Resort and Sorido Bay Resort, both located on Kri island, a 2-3 hour boat ride from Sorong, West-Papua's main entry point for visiting divers.

Kri Eco Resort caters to the more adventurous and budget conscious divers, who prefer basic close-to-nature non-AC accommodation and don't mind a cold mandi shower. Whereas Sorido Bay Resort is for rich people who can't stand the tropical climate and need to be cooled down and pampered to feel well. Guess in which resort we stayed for two weeks :o)


The diving of course is the same for everybody. Except that the rich people get shaded boats and the poor people get free extra time in the sun while sailing to the various dive spots in the vicinity.

Kri Eco Resort is well managed by Maya, Mayse & Nikson. Maya and her assistant Mayse take care of the general administration and organization. Nikson, in charge of the diving, plans and organizes the daily trips and also briefs the divers about each dive site, as unfortunately the junior guides barely speak any English and are rather shy about assuming control.

We stayed in a naturally aired hut on stilts above the water and were pretty happy about it - despite being rudely outboard-noise awakened and exhaust-gassed out of bed each morning as the dive boats moored nearby to refuel and load the scuba tanks :o(

The food was kind of alright, but not as tasty nor as varied as I've come to expect in spicy Indonesia. And considering the number of people who got sick, in both resorts, I'm afraid the hygienic conditions in the rather primitive kitchens are not as strict as they ought to be, especially in a hot climate.

Contrary to the Sorido Bay Resort, Kri Eco Resort enjoys an unencumbered view to the west, meaning we got fabulous fire-in-the-sky sunset shows almost every evening right from our little pier.


As for the diving... is it really worth all the trouble to get here? Well, read on and make up your own mind.

Raja Ampat: Epicenter of marine biodiversity

Scientists have recorded over five hundred coral species and more than one thousand fish species while diving around Raja Ampat. Thereby justifying this small region's claim as the epicenter of marine biodiversity.

Dr. Gerald R. Allen actually counted a record number of 284 fish species in just one dive... So, if you ever wanted to find and name a new fish after yourself, this is probably a good place to start looking - once you've memorized and can keep apart all those already known to science.

Not being a great marine biologist myself - I'm already happy when I can tell which family a fish belongs to - I can't really say that I actually noticed any reef fish that were new to me. What I did notice though is how vast and vibrant many of the reefs still are here. Boasting fabulous pristine coral gardens swarming with fish of all kinds. Indeed, I've never seen so many beautiful reefs nor such an abundance of fish in my 14 years of diving.


One of the reasons for this incredible biodiversity, is the unique conglomerance of various habitats: small protected bays, shaded sheltering mangroves, sun-soaked shallow reefs and nutrient-rich current swept channels offer ideal conditions for a wide variety of aquatic life forms.

Most of the dive sites (e.g. Cape Kri, Mike's point, Mios Kon, Sardines, Sleeping barracuda, Surgeon fish slope, etc) are within a 10km radius from Kri, and require at most 15' to get there. To reach the more remote spots (e.g. Fam island, Jellyfish bay, Manta station, Mansuar island, Passage, Pulau Dua, the P47D Thunderbolt bomber, etc) may take 30-60' and costs 20-60 Euro extra per diver for fuel.

Cape Kri & surrounding reefs

Cape Kri is definitely a top spot with plenty of fish action - especially when there's a bit of current!


Expect schooling jacks, giant trevally, shy groupers, yellow-tail barracudas, swarming unicorn surgeon fish, groups of sweetlips, a couple of human-wary black & white-tip sharks, hawksbill turtles and of course also the area's most spotted shark: wobbegongs.


On one dive we were even so lucky as to see one of these bearded carpet sharks lazily swimming off from underneath its shelter to settle itself again just a few meters further away in the open.

Not to mention another very famous favorite of the region: pygmy seahorses! Alas not always that carefully pointed out by the guides.

While currents were mostly rather mild during our stay here, we did experience some of nature's water moving power at nearby Sorido wall. Luckily we had our reef-hooks ready to hold on to - for unlike the fish which just hung around there without apparent effort, we wouldn't have had a chance against the surging current flowing over the reef that day.

At high tide it's possible to snorkel along Kri Eco's pier, built atop a very nice reef, and if you're very lucky you might even get to see a small cat or epaulette shark!

Chicken bay & surrounding reefs

While we didn't get to see any evolution defying poultry here, Chicken bay nevertheless is a great spot to get up close and personal with yellow-tail barracudas hovering above sandy patches, bat fish playing domino together, humphead parrot fish crunching away on hard corals, or just hang around and mingle with some grazing surgeon fish.


I even found a sleepy wobbegong, for once facing outward from its lair, hidden behind a curtain of swirling glass fish.

On a smaller scale, we were shown a tiny barely 2cm large octopus trying hard to look like a piece of coral rubble and a small winged pipe fish.